Swimming With The Dolphins in Bay of Islands, Northland

Last summer we went out on a dolphin expedition at the famous Bay of Islands up in Northland, New Zealand. We woke up early morning and climb onto the boat taking out at the sea while the sun started to climb out of the clouds behind our back. There was a little bit of wind but not too strong.

There were nine of us aboard, ten with the skipper. We were instructed to alarm the others as soon as we notice anything moving on the water surface. We would rather go and investigate a false alarm than miss seeing a dolphin.

The early morning sun is shinning over the waves playing tricks on us. One thought he saw a fin and it proved to be driftwood. Another showed us a tail which was nothing more than a wave. But wait. Something moved! Oh no, it’s just an empty bottle.

Thing is, some of the passengers came here the day before and they didn’t manage to see any dolphins. This is their second cruise chasing dolphins and hopefully we’ll get to see something this time. Our skipper said there were dolphin sightings around this particular area for the past couple of days. We are trying our luck.

Another nearby skipper calls us out through the radio. His boat have seen a couple of dolphins nearby. We make haste towards his location.

Photo courtesy of Jason Pratt.

Nothing yet. Just as they came, the dolphin disappeared by the time we reached the other boat. As we listen to the hush conversation of our two guides we find out there were Orcas spotted in the area as well. It seems the dolphins don’t come around anymore as long as the Orcas are about. We’ll have to wait it out.

Dolphins or no dolphins, the view around us is spectacular. The Bay of Islands revels in the light of the morning sun, tiny green islands spread all over the place, surrounded by noisy birds and jumping small fish.

The cruise boats are specially made for watching marine life the skipper tells us. They have no moving parts, no propeller, and the dolphin can get close to us without fearing of being chopped to pieces. The boat itself moves with the help of strong jets.

All of a sudden we come across a sailing boat. Its captain keeps waving at us and pointing at the water beneath his feet. We come closer and then we see them!

A group of playful dolphins follow the sail boat slowly, jumping and crying through the waves. They like playing hide and seek with us, swimming in and out of the ocean, under our boat and over to the other. We can hear all their funny conversations in the high pitched dolphin language.

Our skipper, who seems to know some of the dolphins by name, calls out to one of the bigger dolphins – a grey one with a scarred nose and ear. He calls him Chinatown (don’t ask why). The dolphin comes very close to the boat, splashing and trashing all around. I can see him coming in and out of the water, smooth skin shimmering in the morning sun. Chinatown calls to our skipper with a series of high-pitched sounds and clicks of his tongue. The boat master answers back like he understands. There is a conversation going on now between human and the wild animals. We then spot another group of dolphins and speed on to catch up with them.

Before long our captain instructs us to suit up and drop down into the water where the dolphins are frolicking. Like a gaggle of kids we jump up and down eagerly preparing for the novel encounter. We all slide into the cold water one by one and here we are – facing the wild creatures. Despite that, they are tame and let us pet them like we’ve been friends for years and it feels right. There is no fear and no holding back. The dolphins are pushing us around playfully and some of the tourist giggle and kick around stirring waves.

And then, just as they appeared, they are gone. I look around and there is no trace of the dolphins, just a trail of white foam shimmering in the distance. I guess it’s time to hit the deck and undress. Our captain calls us back and we’re on our way to the outer islands, the Urupukapuka island in Russell, and some others. That was some pretty amazing time we had and can’t wait to come back next year. I want to see an Orca!